Our home afloat is just that, our home, where everyday situations occur. We laugh and cry and fight and make up. We argue about bedtimes and we have dishes to wash and dinners to make. Sometimes these little details end up consuming our days and we forget that we are living these details out in some of the most stunning places. One has to only go out to discover this. So we made an effort between the bouts of rain to go and explore- the shoreline, the shallows, a river. And it never disappointed.

Although the Hot Spring dried up after the earthquake that shock the island 3 years ago, they have slowly been returning. Today there is a perfect pool for kids and a barrel to soak in water as hot as you wish it to be. We splashed in the pool then headed to the barrel ‘tub’ to wash up and warm up.

P1070374

We were lucky enough to have the place to ourselves. One of the watchmen, Clayton, was carving a small eagle totem. After chatting with him for a bit we struck a deal. He would carve us a small paddle and in exchange we would given him the large abalone shell we found in California. We were to return tomorrow to complete the trade. Haida have a long history of trading for Californina abalone. They grow much bigger than their northern counterpart and as such have thicker shell that can be worked into many types of art. That night was incredibly wild. We were on the mooring ball at Ramsay Bay  and the wind was howling. We had 20 knots in our little bay and it was forecasted to blow 40 in the straight. We were jerking around like a wild stallion at its bit on our short mooring line and I could not sleep a wink. And it was pouring buckets. I kept envisioning us breaking free and smashing the rocks at our stern. Needless to say we had a slow morning. At some point we realized we had left one of Fynn’s toys at Windy Bay. The wind had abated but the seas remained substantial so Kolby took Otto down to pick it up by himself. We returned to Hot Spring at about 1 pm and Clayton was just putting the finishing touches on the paddle. It was lovely. He was also happy with the shell so the deal worked out well for both of us.  We had found our paddle and have a lovely story to go with it.

The gale was still blowing out in Hecate Straight, so we were unable to stop at Taanu, it was just too exposed. Instead we headed for Murchinson Island where we could dinghy to Windy Bay in the morning. The entrance was a bit of a maze through the rocks, and a little hairy but we made it.
P1070313

Playing as we go

Fynn and I headed for shore while Bowen napped and went on an adventure. She had refused to wear clothes so she was naked and I had her clothes and a bucket. We climbed rocks and hunted for berries. We turned over rocks and collected crabs. She was a forest imp, picking up slugs and sticks and jumping of logs into a carpet of moss. She has an inmate curiosity and is not at all squeamish. These memories of her have imprinted themselves on my heart.
The next morning the wind had abated as forecasted and we zoomed down to Windy Bay. Such a lovely sight for a village. Here Nick gave us the story of the new pole that was raised here and Sheldon guided us to through the woods to the 900 year old fir tree. He as very much at home in these woods. He knows every tree, every change. He pointed out the rivers otters den and where the bear ripped it open. He showed us the bee hive, also destroyed by the bear and told us stories of his time as a watchman.
The tree was huge. It is also still here thanks to the Haida men and women who protested the logging of Lyle Island in the ’80s. Because of them we have the gem of Gwaii Haanas.